Do you know what “Yatai (屋台)” means?
Generally, Yatai refers to outdoor stalls (台) with roofs (屋), typically used for selling goods, that are movable. There are two types of Yatai in Japan. When hearing the word “Yatai”, the most famous type that comes to mind for Japanese people is the temporary food stand during festivals. These stalls offer festival-like foods such as takoyaki, yakisoba, cotton candy, candy apples, etc. allowing people to enjoy the summer atmosphere. However, most stalls don’t provide chairs or tables since festivals are always crowded. The other type of Yatai operates mainly at night, serving a variety of dishes such as ramen, oden, yakitori, and alcohol. These Yatai offer seating areas for customers and often stay open late into the night.
While festival-Yatai can be found all over Japan, the second type is not as common. So today I want to introduce the history of this less frequent but no less delicious form of Yatai, explain why they are rare, what they’re like, and where you can enjoy them.
Photo Credit: makoto.h
What is the history of Yatai?
To begin, Yatai originated from people who lost their families and jobs during the war, collecting ingredients from the black market, and selling food on the street to make a living. It has a long history across Japan, encompassing places like Nagasaki, Fukuoka, Yamaguchi, Hiroshima, Kochi Prefecture, etc. However, there came a point where the number of Yatai dramatically decreased. This was because GHQ raised concerns about hygiene in 1949, telling the Ministry of Health and Welfare to start removing them. As Yatai disappeared across Japan, Fukuoka’s Yatai owners made a union in 1950 and conducted signature campaigns. However, in 1952, Fukuoka City prohibited Yatai operations, and they lost the court case. Following this, the complete abolition of Yatai was decided in 1955.
Fukuoka Yatai – Photo Credit: Jessica Iragne
Despite facing a precarious situation that threatened his livelihood, there was a guy who didn’t give up on his passion for Yatai, called “河田琢郎” Takuro Kawada (a prefectural assembly member in Fukuoka at the time). He posited that if there were 500 Yatai in the Fukuoka, each supporting five family members, then what would happen to the 2,500 people whose lives depended on these businesses? From this, Kawada became renowned as the “God of Yatai.”
Moreover, he went to Tokyo with local Yatai owners to appeal directly to the Ministry of Health and Welfare. As a result, their passion reached the government, and the decision to abolish Yatai was overturned, albeit with various conditions. These conditions included minimizing the menu, improving heating methods, and prohibiting the sale of raw products, meaning only heated dishes could be served. In the end, the city of Fukuoka, and a determined prefectural assembly member, protected the continuation of today’s Yatai.
Yatai which was once thought to have disappeared in Japan, is now a daily and invaluable tradition for the people of Fukuoka. Overcoming wartime issues and an assortment of crises over the years, it has become an invaluable tourist spot.
Inside of Fukuoka’s Yatai – Photo Credit: 福岡市
What to do when going to Yatai?
Knowing your dos and don’ts when eating and drinking at Yatai not only shows respect to the locals and shop owners but also makes the experience more enjoyable. Here, I’ll explain how to enjoy a night at a Yatai to the fullest.
Go to the bathroom before sitting down
Firstly, while these are counter seats, so no restrooms are available. Therefore, please make sure to go to the bathroom before heading to the Yatai. If you’re visiting alone, and going to the toilet before paying, the owner might mistake it for a dine-and-dash. So, always be sure to know the location of nearby public toilets and be well-prepared!
Don’t stay too long
As Yatai is narrow with limited seating space, typically with around 10 seats, it’s vital you order one dish per person. During busy times, it’s essential to enter to eat rather than drink. After finishing your meal, either smoothly leave or place your next order to avoid any inconvenience to the shop owner(s). Additionally, be prepared to sit next to strangers. Although it may feel uncomfortable at first, you might end up finding a nice local foodie buddy during your dine-in. If you’re going in a large group, it’s polite and considerate of you to ask the owner before sitting down. Of course, be mindful of noise and excessive drinking as it may disturb other customers.
Fukuoka Yatai – Photo Credit: Jessica Iragne
Check the menu and price
In general, Yatai is required to display prices, so it’s highly recommended to avoid places without marked prices, and if you’re unsure, it’s a good idea to ask beforehand. In addition, one thing that may confuse travelers to Japan is “Otoushi,” which is a simple appetizer commonly found not only at Yatai but also at izakaya. Some places offer it for free, but since it’s not expensive, please consider it as a tip or the charge of a seat fee.
Try “Hashigo” culture
In Japan, there’s a culture called “Hashigo,” which means bar-hopping. Since Yatai offers a variety of dishes, I highly recommend you enjoy the specialties of Yatai foods as much as possible without staying too long in one place.
Sit from the right side
This is some insider knowledge about regular customers. Apparently, they have a habit of sitting on the left side. Therefore, just in case, it would be better to sit on the right.
Be prepared for the Yatai experience
They generally open early around 18:00, so if you want to avoid crowds and fully savor the gourmet delicacies fresh from the grill, it’s best to go when they open. As a side note, since they are outdoors, be sure to dress warmly in winter. Additionally, luggage like suitcases can be bulky, so you may want to store them in coin lockers at stations.
Understanding these etiquette tips will surely make the locals and owners appreciate your love for Japan!
Oden and Ramen in Fukuoka’s Yatai – Photo Credit: 福岡市
Where to enjoy Yatai?
Fukuoka
In Fukuoka, you can enjoy a lot of dishes, including the original Hakata ramen (Tonkotsu ramen), Motsunabe, Yakitori, Gyoza, and Oden, as well as foreign cuisine. You can find more details about these Yatai here.
Here are some of the main Yatai areas in Fukuoka:
Nakasu Area – This area has a traditional atmosphere and is representative of Fukuoka’s Yatai culture.
Tenjin Area – About half of Fukuoka’s stalls are gathered here. It’s popular among locals and conveniently located near the station.
Nagahama Area – This is where you can taste authentic Nagahama ramen.
Kokura Area – The newly opened “Sakaimachi Park Yatai Village” offers six shops for you to enjoy.
Kurume Area – There are Yatai along Meiji Street and in the Kotomachi area, where you can experience the Taishu gourmet culture (mass eatery).
Hiroshima
In Kure City, Hiroshima, there is also a Yatai culture that has existed since the Taisho era. About a 10-minute walk from JR Kure Station, Kuramoto Street becomes lively at night with around 10 shops bustling with locals and Japanese sake lovers. Kure’s Yatai offers awesome dishes including Oden, Ramen, Teppanyaki, Yakitori, etc. Also, since there are fewer tourists, you can enjoy the food in a relaxed mood. So, if you ever visit Hiroshima, be sure to check out the Kure city!
Yatai atmosphere – Photo Credit: 福岡市
Yatai culture is deeply rooted in tradition, especially Fukuoka and Kure, offering delicious dishes and unique experiences. Stepping into one of these stalls, taking a seat, and ordering a meal bursting with flavor, you’ll be able to taste the long and enduring history of these prefectures. From the local ramen to the living streets, they definitely provide authentic Japanese street food culture which you won’t soon forget. So, next time you visit Japan, I highly recommend you try Yatai and immerse yourself in the local-like atmosphere.
Featured Photo Credit: 福岡市
