There is a simple majesty and elegance about Kyoto with views from sylvan sidewalks that are reminiscent of a bygone era. Ancient Shinto shrines and glowing emerald forests exist alongside car-filled roads, bustling train stations, tall towers, and all the other infrastructure expected of a metropolitan powerhouse. It’s all very becoming of a city that once stood as the nation’s political epicenter, its capital, for over 1,000 years! This rich, and vibrant history hums strongly like a heartbreak underneath its rustic roads which at times may seem to have led one into the distant past of lords, vassals, and ladies.
This September, though the air may still harbor the warmth and energy of the summer matsuri season, the breeze of autumn comes to mellow us all out, still our minds, and replace that freneticism by giving us sights and experiences that will leave us speechless, and enraptured. Insights into the past are playing out right now. And what better way to discover them than together? Let’s dive into some things that are happening this month in the “City of Flowers.”
Two men engaging in one of the festival’s many rituals – Photo credit: Kamigamo Shrine
Chōyō no Sekku
We all have or know someone who has that one number — whenever, and however, it shows up it never fails to muck up your luck! Chōyō no Sekku is celebrated on the ninth day of the ninth month and seeks to deal with this problem head-on. See, “9/9” — two nines next to each like that isn’t great in the least as it sequesters an overabundance of “Yang” or negative energy. Balance is key, white needs black, and black needs white, one cannot overpower the other or else it could spell an unfavorable future. So, when confronted with a scale like this, tipped in Yang’s favor, you must render them even once more, turning what could be an unlucky fate into a great one! At the Kamigamo shrine, this is done so (and has been since the. 9th century!) through the prayers of the devotees, the enactment of rituals, and the commencement of sacred ceremonies. One such ceremony is that of the visiting Saiō-dai, a gorgeous young woman selected to inhabit the role of a regal imperial princess, flourishing in the expected attire of court kimono with flowing black hair, and a loyal retinue of young retainers behind her.
wo young men in the midst of a heated bout of sumo wrestling – Photo credit: Kamigamo Shrine
In honor of her, but chiefly to appease the Gods and ensure a bountiful rice harvest, the strong young men of the surrounding neighborhood compete in sumo wrestling matches! It’s a blood-pumping event, with the boys being split into two teams, of which only the toughest can come out the victor! This fascinating day of celebration is also here for us to express our gratitude for the burgeoning season’s plentiful harvest. You can do so with a chrysanthemum sake in hand, which is served at the shrine free of charge!
Date: September 9th 2024
Location: Kamigamo Shrine
Start/End Time: 10 A.M. – TBA
Fees: Free
Website: https://www.kamigamojinja.jp/en/
People stroll along bags in hand, as they peer in on the many tents that line the walkway – Photo credit: Navi
The 7th Monozukuri Park Marche
A smaller affair, this quaint flea market is a nice way to spend a lively yet relaxing afternoon as you peruse the many booths on display. Handmade goods ranging from woodwork, fashionable jewelry and accessories, cloth and leather handicrafts, and other hidden treasures are for the taking. Food (particularly sweet baked goods) is on sale, and other mouth-watering morsels coming hot from the windows of kitchen cars. Trust us when we say you’ll need the strength to carry home all the neat trinkets you’re going to find for yourself here! If you’re up for it, mosey on over to the music park a few minutes away and be serenaded by live performances, truly something to enjoy your food and drink with!
Date: September 1st 2024
Location: Umekōji Park
Start/End Time: 10 A.M. – 4 P.M.
Fees: Free
Website: https://kyomaf.kyoto/en/
The procession pole holders waltz down a flight of stairs with the great Seiryū-e – Photo credit: Kiyomizu-dera
Seiryū-e Dragon Festival
The words “Kyoto” and “festival” together conjure images of an event born of yesteryear, and of course, it would as it is in keeping with this city of tradition. However, it must be said that every tradition must have a beginning, and this festival, though relatively new, having only sprung into full swing in 2000, is looking to become a part of the pantheon of beloved matsuri. A bi-annual occasion, taking place both in spring and in fall, it’s celebrated in reverence to the azure dragon guardian of the east, seen as a being of mercy and compassion and one of the many forms taken on by the Bodhisattva Kannon, a Buddhist Goddess who protects the city from evil. Legends say his only break is taken when he quenches his thirst during the cover of night at the Otowa no Taki waterfall of Kiyomizu-Dera temple (the hosts of the festival and devote worshipers of Seiryu).
This great entity leads the procession traipsing through the neighborhood for an hour and thirty minutes, as pole bearers wearing both Chinese and Japanese-inspired costumes, haul the 60-foot-long float around the neighborhood. Designed by costume designer Emi Wada, with the help of local craftsmen, the green-scaled guardian moves serpentine-like through the streets and is a wonder of artistry. As the parade progresses conch bells ring out from the hands of musicians, priests chant a prayer and cast holy water, and the entire town gathers to bear witness to it all. So why don’t you too jump in on this colorful bash and give thanks to the Stallworth protector of Kyoto?
Date: September 15th, 2024
Location: 1 Chome-294 Kiyomizu
Start/End Time: 2 P.M. – 3:30 P.M.
Fees: General Admission – ¥400; Junior High School, Primary School – ¥200
Website: https://www.kiyomizudera.or.jp/en/learn/
Two performers flanked by a small group of flute players – Photo credit: Shinogamo Shrine
Meigetsu Kangen-sai
On the night of the harvest moon under the supernally clear night sky, your eyes will not only bear witness to the lovely illuminance of the celestial body above you but your ears will be assuaged by the twang of traditional Japanese court music. Gagaku expertly performed on the Koto, Biwa, and shakuhachi, classical Japanese harp, lute, and flute, serving accompaniment to the bugaku dance onstage, performed in intricate and extravagant costumes and garb. This festival is held in the Hashi-dono halls of Shimogamo shrine—one of the oldest in Japan, having been around since the 6th century and is, as one can tell a most enchanting array. Visitors will be surrounded by the Tadasu no Mori forest (the forest of purification) as they sit and watch the entertainers on stage set against a shimmering golden backdrop. Luxurious moon-viewing parties and other similar functions during the middle of September such as these were popular among Heian aristocracy, which could very well explain the festival’s quiet air of nobility!
The Meigetsu Kangen-sai is thought to have its roots in “Mitoshiroe Shinji” a ritual of old that saw the planting of rice, followed by a special ceremony as a way of asking for protection from the gods against unwanted pests. Before the main event can be said to start, a Shinto ritual must be done where prayers and offerings are given to the shrine’s worshiped deities. From here at 5:30 P.M. is when Hashi-dono bursts into rapturous melody and celebration! For those who feel like upping the ante, you can immerse yourself in a world-famous Kyoto tea ceremony, held right there at Shimogamo shrine. Tickets are bought at the door, while advanced orders are 800 yen. If you wish to time travel back in time and sit in on a charming evening of beauty and culture this is not one to miss out on. So make sure to arrive early to grab that perfect spot on the bench!
Date: September 17th, 2024
Location: 59 Shimogamo Izumikawacho
Start/End Time: 5:30 P.M. – TBA
Fees: Free
Website: https://www.shimogamo-jinja.or.jp/english/
Two women standing in a booth at the Kyoto International Manga Anime Fair – Photo credit: 玄 史生
Kyoto International Manga Anime Fair 2024
Speaking to all otaku in the audience now: this one’s for you! We’re going off the trail of shrines and temples to bring you something that’s right up your alley. A two-day romp! It’s the largest and most famous of its kind in the Kansai area and is set to be held at Miyako Messe Convention Center, Rohm Theater Kyoto, and the Kyoto International Manga Museum (a perfect choice we must say!). It boasts various kinds of workshops, booths, character cafes, a job fair, and the Kyoto International Manga awards so stay tuned for that. Oh and cosplayers? It’s your time to shine! There’ll be plenty of other talented fans out there showing off sartorial passions — so make sure to make your KYO-MAF debut in style! Industry giants, studios, game developers, and publishers use this event as a platform to promote and announce upcoming projects so that’s one more thing to look forward to as you head in. This year’s theme is “Modern Architecture in Kyoto.” A word of notice: If there is a specific event you want to attend be sure to double-check which location it will be in and purchase tickets accordingly.
Date: September 21st – September 22nd, 2024
Location: Miyako Messe Exhibition Center, Kyōto International Manga Museum, Rohm Theatre Kyoto
Start/End Time: Miyako Messe/Rohm Theatre Kyoto – 9 A.M. – 5 P.M. (4 P.M. on Sunday); Kyoto International Manga Museum – 10:30 A.M. – 7:30 P.M.
Fees: Advance tickets – ¥1,200; ¥1,500 – at the door (¥200 discount with foreign passport)
Website: https://kyomaf.kyoto/en/
Although Kyoto may no longer be the capital of the country, it does represent years that have since passed, leaving behind a robust history for the city’s culture to develop from. Being a modern city in a modern world, you can’t ignore the realities of changing times. But through combining elements of both the past and present, Kyoto becomes a beautiful symbol of perseverance through its mixture of old-fashioned traditions and modern-day innovations. We must keep the vision of these times alive so we can live the best of both worlds! The weather is changing, and new things are happening everywhere you look, Kyoto is calling you: Come and see it for yourself!
Feature photo credit: Sorasak
