As the cicadas’ chorus slips into silence and the fireworks of summer fade into memories, the breath of the night slowly grows colder, and the soul of Japan begins to turn. Red maple leaves glisten against the sky, ginkgo trees radiate gold, and the air fills with the faint fragrance of yaki-guri chestnuts, sweet and earthy. The kōrogi crickets shower the garden grass with their thin songs. The summer’s brightness is gone, yet in every steaming cup of sake, roasted or cold-brewed tea poured into people’s hands, or any beautifully crafted beverage, lingers the beauty of time passing – the delicate grace of Autumn in Japan.
Autumn (秋, Aki) time in Japan serves as another special occasion for many. While it serves as a time for gratitude and reflection on life’s permanence, it also marks an exhilarating time for seasonal festivals, delicious food, and, most importantly, the refreshing beverages it brings. In the spirit of this incredible season, an analysis of the specialty beverages of Autumn is in order. Through this, it will hopefully pique your interest and provide you with a new path to explore in your current or future endeavors in Japan. Along the way, my personal experiences with these beverages, along with those of a colleague, will be shared to provide firsthand perspectives on their visual appearance, aroma, taste, mouthfeel, and finish. And to top it all off, we’ll even leave you with some suggestions on particular brands so you know just where to start!
Barrel of Sake (By: Noboru Hirata from Arigato Travel)
Hiyaoroshi: Sake for Autumn
Sake serves as a staple for many Japanese festivities. Whether it’s celebrating an important event or milestone in one’s life or reuniting with old friends, its delicate flavor is one that always brings people together. During the autumn season, it plays an important role in the form of Hiyaoroshi (冷やおろし). The word alone serves as a combination of the words hiya (冷, cold or room temperature) and oroshi (おろし, to lower or sell), which refers to the traditional practice of selling this specific sake at room temperature after it has been cooled in a brewery over the summer time.
Since it was introduced during the Edo period (1603-1868), hiyaoroshi has evolved into an essential autumn practice for many. Once known for its mellow and rich flavor, modern iterations of this acclaimed sake now also carry subtle fruity notes such as melon, pear, apple, and peach. This has helped make the drink versatile and approachable for long-time enjoyers of the seasonal beverage and those dipping their toes into sake for the first time.
A Collection of Sake Barrels at a Shrine (By: Anna Mireca)
For recommendations, depending on your choice of a traditional style or fruity, modern style, two hiyaoroshi sakes would work best. For the traditional style, Tedorigawa Hiyaoroshi (手越川 冷圧搾り酒) from the Ishikawa Prefecture would serve as a great match. The sake’s smooth, balanced, and gentle earthy tone makes it a great pairing with any oden, a popular dish during the autumn season. One can see the sake or similar styles being poured at moon-viewing gatherings in Ishikawa, a time when many locals celebrate the harvest season under the autumn sky. For the modern side, Dewazakura Hiyaoroshi (出羽桜冷やおろし) from the Yamagata Prefecture fits well with its lightly fruity tone that possesses hints of crisp apple and pear for a fruity blend. The sake pairs very well with grilled sanma (Pacific saury). It is best enjoyed during Yamagata’s Imoni Festival (芋煮会祭り) in September, where many gather by the riverside to share a variety of beverages and hearty stews.
A Glass of Seasonal Beer on a Table (By: Minh Thanh Phạm)
Aki Aji: Autumn Flavor Beers
While hiyaoroshi remains a key part of the autumn season, beer remains a staple at any time of the year in Japan. While many associate the cold brew with izakaya food and an escape from work, it has since begun to tie in with seasonal pleasures, especially with younger drinkers, craft brewers, and even non-beer drinkers. Serving under the cultural value of Kisetsukan (季節感), “the feeling of the season,” many big breweries such as Asahi and Kirin, and craft brewers have begun to incorporate the tastes and feelings of what many would consider autumn in their special brewed concoctions. Whether it be in taste (deep, roasted, and warming) or in design (crimson red, gold, and maple motifs), these seasonal beers open the door for one’s creativity to participate in the season itself, whether at a local moon-viewing festival or oceans away.
Three Seasonal Craft Beers by Suntory, Asahi, and Aki Aji (By: David Willis)
The best tasting experience for enjoying any brew would be to try one craft beer and one of the mainstream brews. From personal experiences of tasting some of these amazing beers, the best for mainstream brews would have to be Suntory’s The Premium Malt’s “Aki Kaoru Ale.” Known for its fruity aroma and malty warmth, the “Aki Kaoru Ale” always served as either a great starter beer when with friends at a local festival or a great pairing with certain foods, mainly meat or fish-based dishes, with a side of rice definitely does the trick.
On the other hand, the superb craft beer is the Kōgen no Kinshū (高原の錦秋, Alpine Ruby Autumn) brewed by Karuizawa Beer in Nagano Prefecture. Coming across this beer required a trip all the way to Karuizawa with my friends, and I stumbled upon the beer when passing through Karuizawa Station. The beer stood out with its mixture of orange and yellow labeling, with maple leaves falling in the imagery. Since it was still rather warm, I purchased one can so I could keep it till I get back home and have it cold. The next day, when tasting the now cold brew, its roasted malts and hops gave a refreshing sensation to help cool off from the heat. The caramel aroma from the malts and gentle sweetness gave it a unique taste that serves as a great reminder of great times with friends. In terms of pairing with amazing foods, according to Karuizawa Beer’s website, they suggest drinking the beer with meat dishes, sausage dishes, and other Western meat dishes over Japanese dishes; something that came off as rather shocking, even to me, but interesting too.
Hot Matcha and Hojicha Latte (By: HanzoPhoto)
Kuri and Coffee: Chestnut and Coffee in Autumn
Even with all the delicious cups of hiyaoroshi or ice-cold beers, it’s good from time to time to enjoy some beverages on the less alcoholic side of things. Japan’s coffee culture runs year-round, and in Autumn, coffee roasters celebrate the season by bringing out their nutty, roasted flavors to the delight of customers. Chestnut lattes (栗のラテ, kuri latte) and hōjicha coffee blends serve as main staples, offering a synergy of earthy sweetness and a gentle bitterness that can be paired with any pastry. As of last year, Tully’s Coffee offered an excellent chestnut latte. What made the brew extra flavorful was a mixture of Mont Blanc and chocolate to bring some sweetness. For those in search of hōjicha coffee blends, February Kitchen in Asakusa offers freshly ground hōjicha lattes served with a side of molasses syrup to help bring out the latte’s sweetness.
Person Pouring Tea (By: Jason Leung)
Hōjicha and Genmaicha Comforts
Serving as a staple of life in Japan, tea still holds the throne as the top beverage. With a variety of flavors, autumn reintroduces the well-loved hōjicha and genmaicha teas to the public. Their popularity derives from, as a colleague of mine said, “…their rich earthy flavors that can be associated with the smell of damp fallen leaves on a crisp morning in mid-late autumn.” The connection to Earth and the leaves themselves is a major reason for the massive waiting lines to pile up at local cafes or tea shops to try the newest or most popular teas they have to offer.
Cup of Genmaicha Served with Roasted Brown Rice (By: Roman Debree)
If you are looking for hōjicha specialty teas, Hoho Hojicha Uj Honten in Uji, Kyoto, is highly recommended. Just 6 minutes away from Uji Station, this specialty store specializes in hōjicha and blends, such as yuzu and white peach. The store serves hōjicha-infused sweets such as parfaits, panna cotta, and soft-served ice cream, especially the Premium Hōjicha Castella. For those looking for Genmaicha, Yamamotoyama Fujie Sabo in Nihonbashi is just that. The fine establishment carries on its lasting legacy of offering hand-dripped, single-origin teas that reflect the specific regions they come from. For their Genmaicha teas, most of them come from Kagoshima, Kyoto, and Shiga, bringing a warm and toasty sensation, topped off with a caramel sweetness.
Colorful Trees over Path with Railway (By: Thang Văn)
The wide variety of beverages that Japan offers during the autumn season may appear overwhelming to many, but will most certainly illustrate the true meanings of the autumn season. From the mellow richness of hiyaoroshi sake, the cold, crisp taste of a fruity beer, to the comforting warmth of chestnut coffee blends and hōjicha teas, each cup carries on the tradition and unity of the season. Together, they don’t just offer captivating flavors but a glimpse into Japan’s celebration of reflection and the joy of gathering. In the end, whether you are at a neighborhood festival or a local cafe, be sure to try one of the mentioned autumn beverages. It will serve as an invitation to slow down, savor the season, and connect with friends and others around you.
Featured Photo Credit: Ryutaro Tsukata
