Sugamo, also referred to as the “Harajuku for Grannies,” for their predominant sixty and over population has a lot of charm and history. The neighborhood is famously known for its shopping street Jizo Dori, which dates back to the Edo period. The street has temples, shrines, and vendors selling various local foods and trinkets; there is a festival on the 4th, 14th, and 24th of every month at the Koganji temple. Ultimately, these days are the perfect chance to experience and learn about Sugamo’s rich history and culture while trying delicious foods.
Sugamo directly translates to “duck nest” and numerous ducks can be found throughout the neighborhood. It is said if you poke the duck’s butt found peeking out of one of the shops, you will receive good fortune – one poke for marriage and two pokes to live a long life.
Senbei from Jizo Dori Street Market – Credit: Laila Smith
First of all, several stores sell senbei since it appears to be a popular savory treat amongst the Sugamo locals and tourists. Senbei is a thick, crispy rice cracker; the flavors can vary from plain, sugary, sweet, and spicy. The price for one cracker ranged from as little as 70 yen to 200 yen depending on the flavor you choose.
A local stand selling katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) – Credit: Jessica Iragne
Have you ever seen moving flakes topped on takoyaki or okonomiyaki? The moving flakes are actually katsuobushi, dried bonito flakes made from fermented skipjack tuna. The flakes appear as though they are alive, however it is due to their thin, weightless structure! This ingredient is very important in Japanese cuisine and there is a stand at the entrance of Togenuki Jizoson Konganji Temple where you can buy fresh katsuobushi.
Shichimi stand where you can make your own mix of spices – Credit: Jessica Iragne
There is a shichimi stand in front of the Togenuki Jizoson Koganji Temple too! There is a variety of different spices to choose from, so you can create a mixture of your own spices and even buy a beautifully designed spice container. It is the perfect souvenir to memorialize your trip to Sugamo, and to use those spices while cooking your dishes, honestly what could be better?
Yakitori shop in Sugamo
Many Sugamo vendors sell yakitori, which are grilled chicken skewers made from different parts of the chicken’s body such as thigh, breast, skin, and liver topped with a caramelized sauce. There are distinct names for each part of the chicken like negima and momo for thigh meat, torikawa for skin, and reba for the liver.
Konnyaku Vendor from Jizo Dori – Credit: Laila Smith
Enjoy Food Stalls On Festival Days
When it is a festival day (every month on the 4th, 14th, and 24th), we also recommend you try “Tama Konnyaku”, balls made from potato starch to create a chewy, gummy-like texture similar to mochi but much firmer. The balls are stewed with soy sauce and sugar which gives the konnyaku balls their light brown color. The woman making the konnyaku balls excitedly shared that this dish is said to have amazing health benefits. The locals in Sugamo are happy to share their knowledge with others so this is the perfect opportunity to learn more about the food, and culture, and if you are learning Japanese, there’s nothing better than the chance to practice speaking with a local!
Okonomiyaki Vendor from Jizo Dori – Credit: Laila Smith
Then, you can go to the next stand for Okonomiyaki! This is a pan-fried dish that consists of batter and cabbage then it is topped with mayonnaise and dried seaweed. “Okonomi” means to one’s liking and “yaki” means grilled, thus the name of this dish can commonly be translated to “as you like it pancake.” You can add other ingredients to the batter or choose different toppings, such as meat, seafood, or cheese. Sometimes, this dish is compared to a pizza because of the various options for toppings. Fun fact: There are two ways to cook okonomiyaki – Kansai or Hiroshima style – however the most used is kansai-style, where the ingredients are mixed together instead of cooked separately.
Have you tried Fish Cakes? You can also find them in Sugamo! Also known as isosage, they are made from ground fish meat, then fried and topped with seaweed. There are many flavors to try but a popular flavor is takobo – octopus stick with pieces of benishoga, or pickled ginger. Pickled foods are popular as a side dish because it is considered healthy and beneficial for the body by Sugamo locals.
Oyaki is a stuffed dumpling with seasonal vegetables such as sweet potato, miso, red bean, or nozawana (a Japanese leaf vegetable). The dish is topped with soy sauce or miso to add more flavor and compensate for the blandness of the dumpling’s dough.
Different flavors of Monaka – Credit: Jessica Iragne
Sweet Treats
If you visit Sugamo, make sure to try Monaka! This is a thin, circular wafer cookie made from mochi rice cake which has a crispy skin. Traditionally, it is red bean jam between the two wafers but there are other flavors to choose from such as sesame, chestnut, and plum; the different flavors are indicated by the color of the wafers. The shape of the wafer can vary too from standard squares to cute, little flowers and animals.
Dorayaki & Daifuku from Jizo Dori – Credits: Laila Smith
Another delicious red bean pastry you can try is dorayaki, a soft, fluffy honey pancake filled with anko, a sweet red bean paste! There is also daifuku, a mochi cake filled with anko and it is sometimes topped with fruit; the sweet red bean paste is a great balance to the soft neutral mochi. These sweet treats can be found along the Jizo Dori shopping street as it is a popular yet traditional flavor in Sugamo.
Daigaku Imo from Jizo Dori – Credits: Laila Smith
Daigaku Imo are deep-fried sweet potatoes covered in a sweet sauce and are sold by vendors at Jizo Dori too. Daigaku Imo translates to “University Potato” and it became popular in the early 1900s at universities throughout Tokyo because it is cheap yet filling.
Green tea served in Sugamo – Credit: Jessica Iragne
Green tea pairs really well with all of these desserts! And the good news is that there are several tea shops you can find on the Shotengai! Most of the shops offer free cups of cold green tea as a refreshment. Take a moment to sip on freshly brewed tea while enjoying the yummy treats in Sugamo!
Sugamo offers a unique blend of history, culture, and flavorful local foods to try! From the historic Jizo Dori street market filled with temples and shrines to interacting with the locals, it is a must-visit destination for anyone who wants to experience traditional Japan amid fast-paced Tokyo. Whether you’re poking a duck’s butt for good fortune or enjoying a sweet red bean treat, Sugamo invites you to enjoy its charming community!
Featured Photo: Laila Smith
Be sure to Discover Sugamo’s Delights on our Super Sugamo Local Foodie Adventure!
