Every year, more than 50 million people visit Kyoto to see the historic capital of Japan, the Golden Pavilion, Gion, and other incredibly old things. The allure of the ancient city holds powerful sway over the hearts and minds of people throughout the world. But what makes Kyoto significant to this day is not what has happened but what is happening, from its quiet residential streets to the banks of the Kamogawa River on a Friday night in Sanjo’s party district.