You can hear the wind chimes and the chatter of the locals in the shops. You walk around to stumble upon tatami (Traditional Japanese flooring) merchants. Or the quirky life advice fortune tellers. The charm of Shotengai (Shopping Arcade) lies in the worn-down retro store signs and the once-forgotten shops.
A busy Shotengai at night. Credit: Images by @thejapantimes
Shotengai is a term for a line of streets made of 30 or more shops. These shopping arcades are formed in places of high foot traffic and are often near shrines and temples. It provides locals with amenities and travelers with places to rest and shop for gifts.
The History of Shotengai
Fusehokubu shouten (Osaka) in 1940’s. Credit: Images by http://www.h-machinavi.com/history/index.html
Shotengai was first formed when rakuichi-rakuza (free-market) laws were enacted by Oda Nobunaga. This was in the late Muromachi period in 1392-1573, but many were destroyed in the Second World War and later rebuilt in post-war Japan. That was not all that Shotengai has faced. During the 1950s and 60s, there was a rise in big department stores and shopping centers. So the small businesses were forced to form together for survival. This led to 1962, ‘Shopping Streets Promotion Law’. The shops at Shotengai were now perceived as an official organization, allowing them to apply for government subsidiaries.
Shotengai has survived the changes of time. They have established themselves as a necessary scenery in Japan. They stand for their local communities as well as for the small independent business. Yet the prosperity promised with the recognition did not last long. The 2015 survey by the ‘Small and Medium Enterprise Agency’ shows that 13.17 percent of outlets in Shotengai are vacant nationwide. Shata-Dori is a term for shuttered streets. Often referring to the Shotengai in smaller cities.
Shotengai In the Anime Food Wars!: Shokugeki no Soma
I learned about Shotengai from an episode of Food Wars!: Shokugeki no Soma. The protagonist is a genius chef and his father and his friends have restaurants in their local Shotengai. The big chain stores were stealing customers away from their streets, and so he tried to lure customers back by competing with their popular Karaage (Fried chicken).
They came up with a plan: by inventing an original and unique rendition of Karaage, they were able to draw in people on their commute. And, thus, we can perceive these places with a tender heart. These shops are fueled by their unique history, also providing a place for new and innovative growth. The independent merchants are vital to protect, otherwise, this important and unique culture would cease to exist. As globalized and nationwide chain stores take over Japan there is a need to celebrate and explore these spaces.
So I decided to venture into two Shotengai. Sugamo Jizo-Dori Shopping Street & Asakusa Chika Shotengai. To understand and experience the importance of Shotengai firsthand.
Sugamo Jizo-dori
Entrance to Sugamo Jizo-dori. Credit: Image by Narumi Kirana Shibuya
Located in Sugamo, Jizo-Dori paves the way to Koganji temple. Popular among the elderly, the temple is home to Togenuki Jizo (splinter removing Buddha).
Entrance to Koganji Temple. Credit: Images by @mhzk1217
This temple originally opened at Yushima but moved to Sugamo in 1891. Togenuki Jizo is a secret, so we’re not allowed to observe it. But at the main hall of the temple, they sell Omikage, a paper wrap that contains five small images of the Jizo. These images are eaten or stuck on parts of the bodies that need healing. Stop by the temple to receive blessings for your health!
Banner depicting Sugamon the Jizo-dori mascot. Credit: Image by Narumi Kirana Shibuya
Having a mascot for everything is a characteristic of Japan. And of course so does Jizo-Dori, which is home to ‘Sugamon.’ Sugamo means duck’s nest so it only makes sense that their mascot is a duck. I’ve encountered many charming Sugamon throughout the street.
Sugamon on top of a post box and painted on a shop door. Credit: Image by Narumi Kirana Shibuya
The parts I enjoyed the most about Jizo-Dori are the pastel-colored shop signs. The kind of old-fashioned typography and faded goodness had got me snapping a shot in front of every store!
Two great shops located in Jizo-dori. Credit: Narumi Kirana Shibuya
Left: Outside of a cute life advice shop. Right: Image of one piece of advice offered with a translation. Credit: Image by Narumi Kirana Shibuya with interpreted translation.
I also stumbled upon this life advice shop. Quirky shops like these are what make Shotengai worth visiting. I found myself wondering how many people visited the Koganji temple to heal their bodies and then came to this advice shop to heal their hearts.
Speaking of healing, food is also an important healing treatment, ha!
Original Shio daifuku mizuno store. Credit: Image by Narumi Kirana Shibuya
I saw that many locals were lining up in front of this store. Overcome by curiosity, I went to look around.
Delicious Shio daifuku on offer at Jizo-dori store. Credit: Images by https://shiodaifuku.co.jp/menu.html
The shop was known for its Shio daifuku, a chewy rice cake covered in salty powder with sweet red beans inside. I am a sucker for these flavor combos! They have been in operation since the Showa period (1926 – 1989) and the store has been passed down from generation to generation. To think that someone in the past tasted these same delicious treats! It was an exciting venture and depending on the seasons, they have different snacks available. Springtime is famous for its Sakura Mochi. And in the fall they do Kuri Kinton, mashed sweet potatoes with sweetened chestnuts). Definitely worth visiting at any time of the year to enjoy these seasonal traditional snacks!
There were many other affordable and traditional Japanese style nom noms! Be brave and try out what they offer. My advice for visiting Jizo-Dori is to come in the afternoon as most of the shops were still closed at 10 am and it was also very hot in the mornings.
Asakusa Chika Shotengai
Entrance to Asakusa Chika Shotengai. Credit: Image by Narumi Kirana Shibuya
With visible pipes and a grungy ambiance, this scenery is straight out of dystopian science fiction. If you’ve ever been to Asakusa station, you’ve probably passed by this Shotengai. It is an underground shopping arcade, not even known to most Japanese people. Their history surpasses 60 years, and everything is as it was from the Showa period. This Shotengai is the oldest in Japan!
Standing Soba Shop in Asakusa Chika. Credit: Image by Narumi Kirana Shibuya
Next to the train station passageway are the standing soba shops. Commonly occupied by working men, the experience of slurping noodles at a standing booth is uniquely Japanese. These standing restaurants came from the Edo period and accommodated the busy work life of merchants, traders, and now modern businessmen. But some of these kinds of food stalls were banned due to regulations of the Food Sanitation Act, the Fire Services Act, and the Road Traffic Act. So it’s a rare find to eat at a standing Soba shop. Don’t miss the chance when you come to visit the underground shopping arcade!
Coin locker available in underground arcade. Credit: Image by Narumi Kirana Shibuya
If you’re ever in need of a cheap coin locker, this is the place! Claiming to be cheaper than the station’s locker service, it is a cool storage spot for your belongings. Alongside this are many older-than-your-parents restaurants, massage parlors and 700 yen hair salons.
Asakusa Chika Shotengai is the place to spice up your ordinary tour visit to Asakusa. Unfortunately, when I came to visit, most of the stores were closed in the mornings. So please do visit later in the day when everything starts to open for business.
Shotengai In Reflection
The shopping arcades seem to have immortalized the Showa period, and the economic growth of the past can be enjoyed here. I have encountered many establishments that celebrate Japanese traditional culture. From ones that maintained its charm & ones that have changed with time. I find that there is a contrast to my understanding of Japan, which is a modern perspective. I am excited to explore many other Shotengai and to experience the history of this great country.
Featured Photo by Charlie Fong
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