When you’re craving a cup of joe, which do you choose, a kissaten or a café? That typically depends on what you’re looking for: a place to slowly sip your coffee, have a small meal, and potentially a smoke, or the hustle and bustle of customers coming and going and the clacking of computer keys. Although it needs mentioning that it is no longer permitted to smoke in many food establishments. Even so, the choice is still there, so which is best for you? Let’s find out!
How is a Kissaten Different From a Café?
Lovingly known as a kissa, the kissaten offers more than a high-quality brew. You can often order tea, juice, or a small meal. It has a retro feeling with its dark wood, vintage posters, antiques, and specially selected tableware. And don’t forget the iconic pink phone! These stores are typically found in a back alley or down steep stairs in a basement, and the layout tends to consist of a large bar counter and a few small tables. The main diners are typically a bit older in the age demographic, but you shouldn’t let that stop you. A kissaten is a place to relax and truly enjoy the flavors of specialty beans and brewing methods.
On the other hand, cafés generally target a younger audience. They follow the trends of the coffee world and offer Instagrammable drinks alongside ordinary coffee. You’ll spot people with their laptops open, just as, if not more, focused on their work than the piping mug of coffee next to them. And as far as food goes, a café may offer pastries but not a true meal. The real focus is often to get as many customers in and out as quickly as possible, whilst also offering a good place for people to gather and take advantage of the free wifi.
Where To Go In the City
Now that we know more about Kissatens and Cafes, where should you go first? Don’t worry; I recently went on a Kissaten adventure, finding all the best spots to share with you. When you’re sightseeing around the main parts of Tokyo and don’t want to travel too far, these are for you:
Café Trois Bagues – Photo Credit: Megan Kawakami
Café Trois Ba`gues
Right around the corner from the A5 exit of Jimbocho Station and down the narrow stairs is a delightful little kissaten called Café Trois Bagues. This place might seem a little bit misleading at first; even though it has Café in its name, it actually falls under the kissaten category. Opened in 1976, they use aged coffee beans, which they then slowly roast and lovingly hand pour over a flannel filter, giving the coffee a smooth texture and deep, rich flavor.
As usual, there was a big counter that I decided to sit at this time because it wasn’t so crowded, as well as tables in the back corner. The walls behind the bar are lined with adorable cups and saucers. Sitting at the bar made things a little awkward for me because I kept making eye contact with one of the employees who was busy right in front of me. They were constantly on the move: pouring coffee, preparing food, and waiting on tables. Despite the lighting being on the dark side and the gentle jazz, it was a little difficult to relax. A corner table would perhaps have been more my style. It was not very crowded upon my visit, but the conversation was lively.
I quickly noticed that they don’t seem to just serve coffee, offering an incredible selection of wine and beer for afternoon consumption. Their coffee blends tended to lean more on the bitter, dark-roasted side, except for the Jimbocho blend. In regards to food, the menu offers quite a few desserts. I had a delectable coffee with a splash of Cointreau and a dusting of cinnamon. Since I have been sticking with toast or sandwiches, I ordered the toast au gratin. It was thickly sliced and toasted bread, with ham in the middle and a rich, peppery white sauce on the top. It was a rich, wonderful meal that I had never experienced before.
Address: Japan, 〒101-0051 Tokyo, Chiyoda City, Kanda Jinbocho, 1 Chome−12−1 富田ビル B1F
Open Hours: Monday – Friday: 10 am – 8 pm, Saturday: 12 pm – 7 pm
Price Range: ¥1,000–2,000 per person
Website: http://troisbagues.com/
(No smoking)
Chatei Hotou – Photo Credit: Megan Kawakami
Chatei Hatou 茶亭 羽當
Residing in Shibuya since 1989, the Chatei Hatou is a well-loved kissaten in the area. Located a small walk up Miyamasu Hill will, its easy accessibility is surely part of its charm. Surrounded by the warmth of wood and displays of antique tableware, the shop has an alluring interior. There is even one table that has a tree growing in the center of it!
Given its location, they do offer an English menu; however, when I attended, the waiting staff still only communicated with me using body language. Still, it was great to see so many non-Japanese tourists in the restaurant, enjoying their coffee and cakes. It was very large for a kissaten and very clearly popular because the place was packed, even having a short wait line to be seated. To accommodate all of the guests, there was a considerable number of staff behind the counter. As far as the price goes, it was a little more on the expensive side, but that was also probably due to its location in such a tourist-driven area.
Their most popular dish is their chiffon cake, which sells out extremely quickly, so make sure to get there early if you’re craving a slice! I myself indulged in a croque monsieur sandwich. Essentially, a ham and cheese toastie that had just the right amount of pepper and a few slices of mushroom. For my beverage, I decided on the café au lait glacé because I had never heard of it before. It’s a blend of coffee, sweetened milk, and cream. Trust me when I say it was pure heaven in a glass.
Please note that if you plan to visit, you need to come prepared, as they only accept cash payments!
Address: 1 Chome-15-19 Shibuya, Tokyo 150-0002, Japan
Opening Hours: 7 days a week: 11 am – 11 pm
Price Range: ¥1,000–2,000 per person
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/hatou_coffee_shibuya/
(Small smoking room)
Kugutsusou – Photo Credit: Megan Kawakami
Coffee Hall Kugutsusou くぐつ草
A wee bit on the west side of Tokyo, on the Chuo Line, there is a station called Kichijoji. Known as “the most popular city to live in,” there is a highly popular kissaten here called Kugutsusou. Opened in 1979 by the Edo Ito Marashiro Puppet Theater Company Yukiza, it’s listed on every kissaten ranking website that you’ll find. When visiting, it’s not uncommon to find a line going out the door and down the steep stairs; this spot is just that popular. It has an exceedingly unique interior; the walls are an arch made of clay, dotted with alcoves of dried flowers, driftwood, and candles, lending to the feeling of being in a cave. Further adding to the ambiance is the dark wooden bar in the back and the furniture, all encapsulated with soft, warm lighting. The menus were hand-bound out of leather, which added a fun little bonus to the already uniquely crafted experience of the kissa.
Because it’s a popular kissaten, it is a little on the loud side. The usually soft jazz was at a higher volume, and many loud conversations were competing with both themselves and the music. This factor may also partially be due to the surprising number of young couples that made up the large quantity of customers. Certainly not the usual patrons you come to expect from a kissaten.
There’s a wide variety of coffee brews available, and they also offer alcoholic beverages all day, but Kugutsusou’s popularity actually lies with its curry over rice. A gorgeous blend of spices with just the right amount of kick, it was truly delicious. Including the chunks of beef that melt in your mouth, it couldn’t have been better. They also offer a simple takeout menu of curry, curry over rice, and, of course, coffee. Drinkwise, I personally ordered an Irish latté, which consists of a shot of espresso with Irish whiskey. It was a little bitter, considering the combination of espresso and alcohol, but the whipped cream on top balanced it out nicely.
Be prepared to spend; for its popularity, it was the priciest kissaten that I visited on my trip.
Address: Japan, 〒180-0004 Tokyo, Musashino, Kichijoji Honcho, 1 Chome−7−7 島田ビル B1階
Opening Hours: 7 days a week: 10 am – 10 pm
Price Range: ¥1,000–2,000 per person
Website: https://www.kugutsusou.info/
(No smoking)
Café Trois Chambres – Photo Credit: Megan Kawakami
Café Trois Chambres
Located in Shimokitazawa, just one station from Shibuya on the Inokashira Line Express train, on the southern exit of the shopping street, up a set of narrow steps is Café Trois Chambres. It was nice to go up a good set of stairs for once, although they were still quite narrow. At the top is a smoking area, which is also where customers line up to get into this popular kissa. It was surprisingly crowded with young people and couples. There are tables deep in the back of the place, but I was seated at the counter because it was so busy. Only two employees were serving roughly thirty guests, so there was a bit of a wait for the orders to come out.
Like all but one of the kissa that I visited, it was woody with jazz music playing, loud conversations, and low lighting. And again, it was decorated with antique china and milk pitchers, however, the walls were bare, with no vintage posters in sight. Keeping with tradition, this was one location where you could still smoke. The guests were definitely taking advantage of that fact, as the kissaten was a literal cloud of smoke.
They are highly regarded for their cheesecake, both baked and no-bake. But, it usually goes quickly, so get there early before it sells out. Their coffee is flannel-dripped, creating the perfect balance of sour and bitter. I again went for an Irish latté, and this one came piping hot with a large portion of cream. Continuing with my ordering of sandwiches and toast, I got their cinnamon toast. A chunky slice of bread, it was covered in sugar and a slight bit of cinnamon that was then flambéed to crunchy perfection. Served with a side of whipped cream, it was reminiscent of French toast. I was in cream heaven with both my latté and cinnamon toast.
This kissaten is definitely not recommended for asthmatics or just people who plain dislike smoking. Also, bear in mind that they take cash only, so make sure to prepare accordingly.
Address: Japan, 〒155-0032 Tokyo, Setagaya City, Daizawa, 5 Chome−36−14 湯浅ビル 2階
Opening Hours: 7 days a week: 9:30 am – 8 pm
Price Range: ¥1–1,000 per person
(Heavy smoking)
Looking for a Little Adventure?
Now that we’ve had a look at some of the best spots within the cities, let’s move on to something a bit more off the beaten track. For those who prefer to have a bit more of an adventure when traveling to their kissaten, here are my recommendations:
Monozuki – Photo Credit: Megan Kawakami
Monozuki 物豆奇
As for location, Monozuki is in a very convenient place; however, its atmosphere was something completely different from the other kissa that I visited, and that’s why I put it in the adventurous section. One station east of Kichijoji, on the Chuo Line, is Nishi-Ogikubo, and just a seven-minute walk from the station is this charming kissaten called Monozuki. Walking through their door feels like slipping into the world of Alice in Wonderland. Of course, there is the requisite dark wood and tile, but Monozuki takes it to a whole different level. Since its establishment in 1975, there has been plenty of time to cover nearly every inch of the walls with vintage clocks, prints, and lamps. On top of that, the flooring is real radial brickwork, and the bar is made of brick as well. But perhaps the most eye-catching feature is the functioning traditional fire pit in the center of the kissa. The layout is a bit of a maze, but it made for an exceptional experience.
Even with the lamps lit everywhere, the space is relaxing. An atmosphere that was only added to be the light piano jazz playing in the background. The customers were surprisingly young, and the couple sitting next to me were having a very lively conversation. The other patrons were single, and most were happy, just enjoying their coffees and reading books.
The master provides a variety of curated beans that he hand-drips. The basic blended coffee is a mix of Mocha, Colombia, Brazil, and Mandheling beans, making it more on the sour end. The ham toastie was wonderful: a crispy toasted sandwich with thick ham, no onions, and a rich mustard and mayonnaise sauce. Considering its location on the Chuo Line, the prices were quite reasonable. I definitely recommend it just for the atmosphere. Unfortunately, they don’t have any social media, so you will just have to visit and see for yourself!
Address: 3 Chome-12-10 Nishiogikita, Suginami City, Tokyo 167-0042, Japan
Opening Hours: 7 days a week: 11:30 am – 8 pm
Price Range: ¥1–1,000 per person
(No smoking)
Kissa , (ten) – Photo Credit: Megan Kawakami
Kissa , (ten)
The Seibu Shinjuku Line leaves from Shinjuku Station to the commuter town side of Tokyo. You’ll find plenty of parks dotted among the residential areas just outside the main part of Tokyo, and perhaps a chance for adventure if you decide to take a stroll. And just a hop, skip, and jump away from the Higashi Fushimi Station on this line, you’ll come across Kissa , (ten).
Kissa , (ten) offers a large variety of blends and straight coffee beans, from a morning blend to Kilimanjaro. Their special Musashino blend is the perfect balance of sour and bitter, making for a wonderfully delicious cup of joe. The coffee is siphon brewed, and if you sit at the bar counter, you even get to watch the sumptuous globes of coffee while they brew. The coffee is delivered to your table in beautiful cups and saucers by Noritake and Wedgewood.
They also specialize in confectioneries. Lovingly crafted by Shoko-san, they are beautifully displayed in a showcase of delicious cakes and, of course, the cake of the day. It is one of the rare times that I have seen carrot cake in Japan. I enjoyed their honey toast, which was a thick slice of bread, crunchy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, smothered in honey and butter without being overly sweet.
For a kissa, their floor plan was quite spacious. There is plenty of room to walk, and the tables are not crammed together. The wood was light in color with brick
accents, and the lights were at a normal brightness. Apart from a light piano jazz in the background, it was peaceful, with a few people even taking the chance to read books at their tables. It was by far the most relaxing kissaten that I went to.
Address: 4 Chome-15-9 Fujimachi, Nishitokyo, Tokyo 202-0014, Japan
Opening Hours: 7 days a week: 9 am – 9 pm
Price Range: ¥1,000–2,000 per person
Website: https://kissa-ten.jimdosite.com/
(No smoking)
Pink Retro Phone – Photo Credit: Waraku Web
Visiting several kissaten was an interesting experience for me. Expecting to step into the past, it seems that while the distinct atmosphere, food, and passion for quality coffee have been maintained, the crowd that visits kissa has changed with the times. I came in expecting to be greeted by an older, calmer generation, but the majority were young people having extremely animated conversations with their friends and significant others. Whether tucked away in hidden alleys or nestled within the bustle of Tokyo, kissaten provide a rich sensory experience, from antique decor to carefully curated beverages, that invites patrons to pause and enjoy the moment with a one-of-a-kind treat.
Feature photo credit: Ned Snowman
