Are you planning an itinerary when visiting Tokyo, or maybe just wanting to see what there is to do around there? Well, you’re in luck! Sugamo is a fantastic little neighborhood that is easily reached from Tokyo and provides the perfect chance to escape all the hustle and bustle that comes with the city. So, today, let me show you some of the best things you can do and find when in Sugamo! Believe me, there is a lot you can discover and experience when in the area.
Entrance to Jizo Dori – Photo by Kristina
Jizo Dori
Probably the most famous part of Sugamo, Jizo Dori is an 800-meter-long shopping street that caters to the older population, earning it the nickname “Old Ladies’ Harajuku.” Believe it or not, this is a pretty historical place, originally located on the Nakasendo to act as a rest stop for travelers. The Nakasendo trail was active during the Edo period, and was one of the 5 routes that connected Kyoto to Edo (now known as Tokyo)! Throughout time, a small town grew around this stop and has thrived as a place of commerce and faith from the mid-Edo period to the present day. Jizo Dori is known for its sweets, especially shio-daifuku, pounded rice cakes that contain sweet bean paste and salt to moderate the sweetness, and also its iconic underwear.
Red underwear is being sold at the store! – Photo by Kristina
This unique underwear is part of a well-known Japanese tradition among seniors! It wards off bad luck and any evil and symbolizes happiness and luckiness. So, if you want to join in with some quirky traditions, make sure you stop by and pick up a pair of lucky red underwear! Who knows, it might change your life.
Festival in Sugamo – Credit: Jessica Iragne
Festival every 4th, 14th, and 24th
Additionally, every 4th, 14th, and 24th of the month, a festival is held within Jizo Dori. The streets become much livelier, and there are food stalls that you can visit to sate any form of craving you may have. Make sure you don’t get there too late though, since people start to pack up their stalls around 16:00!
Address: 4 Chome-22-8 Sugamo, Toshima City, Tokyo 170-0002, Japan
Opening Hours: 7:00 to 23:00 7 days a week
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/rEtPpRpDvKwf3Enm7
Website: https://sugamo.or.jp/
Entrance to Togenuki Jizo – Photo by Kristina
Koganji Temple (Togenuki Jizo)
In the middle of the Jizo Dori shopping district lies a temple known as Koganji Temple, or Togenuki Jizo, which is believed to have healing powers. In the past, a woman who worked at the feudal lord’s mansion had accidentally swallowed a needle and was given a paper talisman with a picture of the Jizo statue on it. With the help of the talisman, the needle came out with no trouble, this created the legend that is the reason behind the name “Togenuki”, meaning “thorn removal”. Holding such an interesting history, this temple is surely a must-visit when you’re in Sugamo, especially if you’re looking for a little extra blessing when it comes to good health!
Arai Kannon
Within the temple, there is an Arai Kannon statue, which is a very famous spot to visit for the elderly and those who have any sort of ailment. There is a belief that by pouring water on the same spot that is bothering you and then cleaning the area with a cloth, any pain or issues you are having are relieved. If you recover, it is said to offer two new “tawashi” brushes (the ones that you used to scrub the statue!) as a token of appreciation. If you are one of the lucky ones who are on the receiving end of this blessing, you should offer two new “tawashi” brushes, just like the ones that you used to scrub the statue, to show your appreciation! So if you’ve got an annoying pain you’d like to get rid of, why not get to scrubbing? Who knows, you might be surprised by the outcome.
Address: 3 Chome-35-2 Sugamo, Toshima City, Tokyo 170-0002, Japan
Opening Hours: 6:00 to 17:00 7 days a week
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/d95otuoRTtRNZ3548
Website: https://togenuki.jp/
Oiwa-san’s grave – Photo by Kristina
Oiwa-san
Do you like ghost stories? If you do, then this activity is perfect for you. The story of Oiwa-san is probably one of the most famous Japanese ghost stories, and is based on real people who lived in Edo during the 17th century! And most importantly, many people also believe that her actual grave where she is buried is located in Sugamo! Here’s a brief overview of Oiwa-san’s story:
When she was alive, she was in an unhappy marriage with a man named Iemon. Oume, a woman who lived next door, had feelings for Iemon and wished to marry him for herself. To get what she wanted, Oume conspired together with her grandfather to have Oiwa who was unwell after giving birth, drink a “medicine” that was actually a poison that grossly disfigured her face. As a result of this poison, Oiwa passed away but didn’t stay gone for long, returning to torture and haunt the lives of all who had wronged her during her life.
Of course, even you should be careful if you want to see the grave for yourself. When visiting Oiwa-san, make sure to ask for something and don’t visit solely out of curiosity, or your right eye will become swollen just like hers was! So make sure you come prepared if you wish to visit Oiwa-san, lest you also face her wrath!
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/tBks6HCK8vL5ZQGD7
Stone Monument at Myokoji Temple showing it is the birthplace of the Japanese Brass Band Credit: Picturesque Japan
Myokoji Temple
Before heading into the cemetery to see Oiwa-san, there is a beautiful temple, known as the Myokoji Temple. What’s best, is that it is completely free to enter! As you walk around, there are a couple of cats that like to lounge around on the property, making it perfect for all cat lovers! If you’re not a fan of them though, don’t worry! They don’t go up to anyone, and you can snap a couple of pics and be on your way! If you do decide to visit Oiwa-san after admiring the temple, please keep in mind to be respectful as this is a graveyard and other people are laid to rest here as well!
Address: 4 Chome-8-28 Nishisugamo, Toshima City, Tokyo 170-0001, Japan
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/tBks6HCK8vL5ZQGD7
Picture inside Rikugien Gardens – Rikugien Official Website
Rikugien Garden
Around Sugamo station is Rikugien Gardens, which was established all the way back in 1695! This spectacular landscape was designed by Yoshiyasu Yanagisawa, a Japanese samurai during the Edo period, at the shogun’s request. The garden’s name translates to “Six Tenets of Poetry,” and there are 88 scenes representing both famous Japanese and Chinese literature within the grounds. When wandering around, make sure to be on the lookout for the stone markers that mark these different scenes, though unfortunately, only 32 remain today. This is one of the most famous gardens in the Tokyo area, and is best to visit during the fall or spring when you can see the colorful autumn leaves or the beautiful cherry blossom trees, respectively! Admission is 300 yen for the general public, 150 yen for seniors who are 65+, and is free for children in primary school or younger!
Address: 6 Chome-16-3 Honkomagome, Bunkyo City, Tokyo 113-0021, Japan
Opening Hours: 9:00 to 17:00 7 days a week
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/VubFoL9WfSgnuW6p7
Website: https://www.tokyo-park.or.jp/park/rikugien/
Sugamon on the postal box – Photo by Kristina
Sugamon – the Mascot of Sugamo!
Last but not least, we have Sugamon, the famous duck, and mascot, of Sugamo! The name of this neighborhood, Sugamo, literally translates to “duck nest”, and within Jizo Dori, there are many different duck statues that you can search for! For example, be on the lookout for a small wooden house with something big and white sticking out. This is actually the butt of Sugamon, and there is a belief that if you poke it once, you’ll get married, and if you poke it twice you’ll live a long life! So, better get to poking!
After reading this post, I’m sure you can agree that there is a lot to do around Sugamo. It’s a great place to get away from the crowds in popular Tokyo areas, allowing you to escape and relax from all the hustle and bustle! You can step a bit further into Japanese culture, without having to travel far away from Tokyo. Honestly, there’s not much better you can get when it comes to travel destinations within Japan. Once again, don’t forget to add Sugamo to your travel list!
On a trip to Tokyo? Join us on our SUGAMO FOODIE ADVENTURE to learn more about Japanese culture while enjoying delicious food!
